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Canyoneering Route Description

Purgatory Canyon - 3A III or IV
Death Valley National Park, California.

Pictures 03-06-10

Quick Facts

03-06-10, 5 people, 1 Day (Travel time in route 11.75 hours)

Distance - 7.1 miles Total, 1.9 miles Technical
Rappels - 17 Rappels, Longest Rappel 120 feet.

See the Canyoneer Trip Report Explanation Notes page for an explanation of how the technical mileage or the gear used list is determined.

Gear Used for Canyon

Rappelling and anchor gear, two 200 foot ropes, and 70 feet of 1” webbing for sling placement.

General Comments

Purgatory is one of the “Fun” canyons in my mind.  The raps are fun as usual but the down climbs offer lots of enjoyment.  There are a more down climbs than can reasonably be placed in a route description (but not as many as Typhon Canyon).  None of the down climbs are extremely difficult but are just difficult enough to feel like you need to think a little for them.  

Typhon Canyon, Erebus Canyon and Purgatory Canyon are all in a section of the Black Mountains with a great mix of colors all swirled into the rocks.  Typhon has a huge amount of down climbs while Erebus does not have as good a display of the colors in the rock.  Purgatory is the best mix of these three with enough down climbs to be fun, plenty of rappels and a very good display of the colorful rock.  Purgatory is my first pick of these three canyons and Typhon would be pick number 2 for these three since it has a couple very cool rappels.  

So far only the North Fork of Purgatory Canyon has been done.  Maybe some time the South Fork can be added as an option as well.  

The route description here is for descending from Dante’s View as the approach.  The route can be done from the bottom up by using the bottom up approach described in the Abysmal Canyon route description.  The bottom up route would eliminate the need for a long shuttle to Dante’s View and may save a little time.  

If doing Purgatory from the bottom up is of interest, follow the bottom up approach portion of the route for the South Fork of Abysmal to (yAbysmal-SF2Tp).  From there continue another 0.8 miles over to the South Fork of Purgatory using waypoints (wAbysmlTpRP-10), (yAbysmal-SF1Tp ), (wAbysmlTpRP-09 ), (wAbysmlTpRP-08) and (wAbysmlTpRP-07).

Getting to the Trailhead and Exit Vehicle (Escape Pod) Parking

To get to the Trailhead

From the junction of highways 178 (Bad Water Road) and 190, drive about 10.7 miles east on highway 190 to the turn off for Dante's View.  Follow the signs to Dante's View (sDantesView) which is another 13 miles.

To leave the Exit Vehicle / Escape Pod

From the junction of highways 178 (Bad Water Road) and 190, drive 13 miles south on highway 178 to the turn off for Natural Bridge.  Continue south past the turn off for Natural Bridge 0.8 miles and park alongside the road.  There is no parking spot, just find a comfortable place to get off the road (pkAbysmalBt).

Maps

Map showing entire route.

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Map showing mostly the Technical section.

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GPS Waypoint Information

Details

The Approach:
From the Dante’s View parking area head north and follow the well worn use trail toward Mount Perry (tMntPeryUseTrl).  The use trail is well worn and passes by Dante’s Peak (pDante'sPeak) about 0.4 miles into the trail.  

About 1.8 miles from the trail start the trail fades away as it heads west (wMntPeryRP-01).  Do not follow it west, instead turn right (north) and go about 250 feet to the start of a hill heading up and west (wMntPeryRP-02).  Starting up the hill you will begin to see rocks with a white dot painted on them to help with following the trail.   

A little over 500 feet the hill tops out on a ridge (wMntPeryRP-03).  Turn right (north) and follow along the ridge using the white paint spots to help keep you on track.   

After about 200 feet, will be another short section of the trail that is clear and easy to follow.  As the trail fades away again (wMntPeryRP-04), another section of painted rocks is set to help with staying on route.  Another 0.2 miles and the trail will cross a small saddle which feels more like a wide flat area (wMntPeryRP-05).  

From the small saddle (wMntPeryRP-05) follow the trail north and it will soon curve around west.  

About 0.3 miles from the small saddle will be another saddle (jTyphonSouth) that is much more of a defined saddle.  As a visual land mark, the north side of this saddle is a hillside that is made up of red and white layers of dirt.  This saddle is where the route to the South Fork of Typhon Canyon would leave the Mount Perry Use Trail.  

From this saddle (jTyphonSouth), follow the trail north as it traverses around the hill side with the red and white layers of dirt.  

About 0.4 miles further the trail crosses another saddle.  Just beyond this saddle is a huge cairn on the left (west) side of the trail (wMntPeryRP-06).  The cairn is one of many left over’s from mining activity.  

About 160 feet past the huge cairn is where you will leave the Mount Perry Use Trail and start descending toward Abysmal and other canyons in the area of Abysmal Canyon (jAbysmal).  

When leaving the trail walk about 60 feet to the northwest to the top of a small mound.  From this mound continue down the ridge that runs northwest.  The path down this ridge is a faint path that is hard to follow in some spots and easier to follow in others.  Since there are mine artifacts in the area, this trail was most likely made by miners a while back.  

Along the ridge to the northwest will be some rock features (out croppings) along the way.  The first will be a pinkish out cropping about 0.2 miles from the trail.  The second will be a larger more red out cropping about 450 feet later.  The third will be almost 200 feet later. A faint trail goes around each of these on the right (north) side.  Just after the third outcropping the trail will continue down the ridge slightly left (south) of the ridge crest.

About 700 feet after the third out cropping or 0.4 miles down the ridge from where you left the Mount Perry Use Trail will be some mining remains (wAbysmlTpRP-01).  There is a saw blade and various pieces of wood and other items.  There is also a table and chisel which looks like it was used to chip at and look over rocks pulled from the area.  If you look around you can also find remnants of an old wooden barrel.

From the mining artifacts follow the ridge still northwest about 0.2 miles to just before a patch of dark red rocks just to the left of the ridge.  Just before reaching the dark red rocks (wAbysmlTpRP-02), turn right (north) and descend to the wash below.  The descent to the wash is steep, rocky and easy to slip on.

Once in the wash below (wAbysmlTpRP-03) climb up and out the other side (north).  After the steep portion of the climb out, continue up the now less steep portion to the top of the ridge.

At the top of the climb out on the ridge (wAbysmlTpRP-04), look for a hill about 600 feet to the north that is made up of a mix of orange and white dirt.  The next goal is to get to the saddle on the east side of that hill.

Between you and the hill is a deep wash.  To get around the wash, look for a faint path leading north east then veering north as it travels around the deep wash.  The path fades away to nothing as it goes around the head of the wash.

From the head of the wash go north west a little over 200 feet to the saddle at the base of the red and white hill (wAbysmlTpRP-05).  From this saddle follow a wide shallow chute north down into the wash that winds down around the north side of the red and white hill.

About 0.2 miles down the wash on the north side of the small red and white hill is the junction for Erebus Canyon (jErebus). There is no land mark for this point in the wash but with a watchful eye it is easy to know when you are in the right spot.  As you continue down the wash keep an eye out for the salt flats of Death Valley to come into view in the distance to the west.  When you have a view down the wide open wash with the salt flats visible in the distance you are in the right spot.  The canyon you are looking down with the salt flats beyond is Erebus Canyon.

To continue toward Purgatory travel up the bank of the wash to the north.  A little over 400 feet away is a cairn about 2.5 feet tall (wAbysmlTpRP-06).  There are a lot of cairns scattered all over the area so GPS may be a good idea if you want to find the same cairn described here.  This cairn is on the far north side of the wide drainage you have been crossing.

About 100 feet northeast of the large cairn is a small chute dropping down to the next drainage (wAbysmlTpRP-07).  Drop down the chute and start following the wash downstream to the north west.  This wash is not part of the wide drainage heading toward Erebus Canyon.  This wash, is north of that wide drainage and leads down to the North Fork of Purgatory Canyon.

About 0.4 miles down the wash, the canyon walls start to close in a little.  Shortly after will be a few short drops one right after the other.  This series of drops is the top entry for the North Fork of Purgatory (yPergatoryNFTp).

The Canyon / Technical Section:
After the first drop (yPergatoryNFTp) continue west down canyon.  About 300 feet down canyon of the entry is a drop of about 20 feet down gray and white striped rock.  Bypass this drop by climbing up and around RDC.

About 0.3 miles down canyon from the gray and white striped drop are a couple down climbs along white rock.  The first is about 15 feet to a sand filled ledge then a second drop of about 12 feet to a smaller sand filled ledge where the anchor for rap 1 is located.

Rap 1 (dPurgNF_R1) is anchored from a jug handle RDC and drops about 40 feet.  Along the rap are a lot of mixed color layers in the rock on the way down.  Well worth the look as you rap down.

Shortly after rap 1 are a few down climbs along white rock of about 10 feet each.  After the down climbs it is easy walking along open wash.

Rap 2 (dPurgNF_R2) is about 0.1 miles down canyon of rap 1 and is anchored from a cairn anchor with a drop of about 20 feet.

A short distance down canyon of rap 2 is a drop of about 15 feet that can be bypassed RDC down a ramp.  There is some light exposure getting over to the ramp.  There are a couple more drops along the way down toward rap 3, each of which can be down climbed directly.

Rap 3 (dPurgNF_R3) is about 450 feet down canyon of rap 2.  Rap 3 is anchored from rock wedged creatively behind a rock jug handle in a small alcove LDC with a total drop of about 20 feet.  The start of Rap 3 is a little awkward with some overhang below the boulder you start on.

After rap 3 is easy wash walking for about 300 foot to a section of canyon with a lot of small easy down climbs.  Then travel is a mix of wash walking and a couple some easy down but bigger down climbs along the way.

About 0.2 miles down canyon of rap 3 is a deep fluted drop down polished striped rock about 15 or 20 feet.  This drop is bypassed by climbing up and over LDC.  Once up onto the ledge LDC of the drop walk down canyon along the ledge about 180 feet to and easy down climb to rap 4.  The down climb to rap 4 is slightly down canyon of the rap.  The down climb works back up canyon slightly to the top of rap 4.

Rap 4 (dPurgNF_R4) is a little over 0.2 miles down canyon of rap 3.  Rap 4 is anchored from a cairn anchor and drops an even 100 feet.  Rap 4 starts off along a smooth rock pour off, and then a short spot of free hang below the pour off before continuing down a vertical wall.  The view of the canyon below and the salt flats in the distance is great from the top of Rap 4.

Down canyon of rap 4 is easy wide open wash walking.  About 250 feet down canyon of rap 4 is a drop of about 35 feet that can be down climbed along the slope RDC. 

About 300 more feet down canyon is a section with a lot of little down climbs close together.  One of the down climbs is best done by providing a meat anchor for all but the last person who can then down climb the drop.

About 250 feet more down canyon is another section with multiple down climbs.  In these down climbs is another where a meat anchor for all but the last person is a good idea.  This down climb is about 25 feet.  The best way to down climb the drop is down the ridge RDC of the smooth pour off.  Looking down does not look like it is an easy task but is actually pretty simple.  Getting over onto the start of the climb is the hard part.

A little over 100 feet more down canyon, is an almost sheer drop of about 30 feet which can be bypassed by climbing around RDC.

About 250 feet more down canyon is a drop of about 12 feet down smooth chute.  A meat anchor is a good idea for all but the last person.

About 250 feet more down canyon is a large drop that can be bypassed by traversing and climbing down RDC.

About 250 feet more down canyon is a drop of about 20 feet that can be bypassed by climbing around LDC.  Shortly after the drop is rap 5.

Rap 5 (dPurgNF_R5) is about 0.4 miles down canyon of rap 4.  Rap 5 is anchored from a large red rock wedged about 40 feet up canyon from the top of the rap.  The total drop down Rap 5 is about 60 feet.  Total rope travel from anchor to the bottom of the rap is 100 feet so a 200 foot rope will just reach.  The top portion of Rap 5 can be down climbed.

Down canyon of rap 5 is a mix of easy down climbs and wash walking.

Rap 6 (dPurgNF_R6) is about 500 feet down canyon of rap 5.  There is a short down climb of about 10 feet in a chute before reaching the top of Rap 6.  Rap 6 is anchored from a red boulder wedged between the white walls about 40 feet back from the top of the rap.  There is a shallow pool (not always full) between the anchor and the start of the drop which is easy to stem over to avoid getting wet.  The drop for Rap 6 is about 60 feet.  A single 200 foot rope works fine for Rap 6 since the total rope travel is right at 100 feet from anchor to ground (anchor 40 feet back and a drop of about 60 feet).

Rap 7 (dPurgNF_R7) is about 200 feet down canyon of rap 6 with some wide open feeling views just before reaching Rap 7.  Rap 7 is anchored from 2 large rocks lying near the top of the rap and drops about 90 feet down a pretty smooth fluted wall.

Rap 8 (dPurgNF_R8) is about 150 feet down canyon of rap 7.  Rap 8 is anchored from a few red rocks wedged in the water course and drops about 30 feet.

Rap 9 (dPurgNF_R9) is about 100 feet down canyon of rap 8.  Rap 9 is anchored from a large rock embedded in the wash just above the rap and drops about 60 feet.  Rap 9 starts off down a smooth chute for a few feet then goes vertical dropping along a rough wall.

Below rap 9 is a large shelf with a drop of about 50 feet on the other side.  The drop can be bypassed by climbing up and over LDC of the drop.

About another 350 feet down canyon is a drop of about 20 feet that is bypassed LDC.  At the bottom of this drop is a deep pothole that may be a bit challenging to get out of if you happen to drop into it.  After bypassing LDC you can walk over to the bottom of the pothole and look in.

Shortly down canyon is a drop of about 30 feet which is bypassed up and over RDC followed by another drop that is also bypassed RDC.  Shortly down canyon of these drops is rap 10.

Rap 10 (dPurgNF_R10) is about 600 feet down canyon of rap 9.  Rap 10 is anchored from rocks piled in the water course and drops about 90 feet.  About 15 feet down Rap 10 is a small ledge before continuing vertical for the rest of the drop.

Rap 11 (dPurgNF_R11-12) is about 100 feet down canyon of rap 10.  Rap 11 is anchored from a rock in the wash and drops down 2 stages of about 30 feet each.  The first stage drops about 30 feet down a smooth wall to a gravel filled area.  The second stage drops down a slightly sloped wall about 30 feet to a pothole.  Depending on recent rain activity the pothole may have water in it.  If it’s full of water the pool will be a swimmer, but only about 10 feet across.  If the pool is only partially full it is possible to get over to a small ledge LDC then carefully traverse around the water.

Rap 12 is right below rap 11.  Rap 12 is anchored from rocks piled in a down in a small hole in the water course and drops about 120 feet down a rough wall.  The lip at the top of the rap has some rough spots that can easily catch a knot as the rope is pulled over it.  The last person down can drop over the lip and stand on a ledge about 5 feet down then move the knot over the lip to avoid issues with rope pull later.

Down canyon of rap 12 are a few down climbs on the way to rap 13 ranging from 10 to 30 feet.

Rap 13 (dPurgNF_R13-14) is anchored from a cairn anchor and drops a total of about 35 feet with a ledge about 20 feet down.  The first part of rap 13 is easily down climbed to the ledge.

Rap 14 is near the bottom of rap 13 and is anchored by a cairn anchor.  Rap 14 drops about 40 feet.

Down canyon of rap 14 is a little wash walking with a lot of small down climbs along the way.  About 300 feet down canyon of rap 14 is a series of down climbs with a couple of the down climbs being steep and slick.  Using a meat anchor for all but the last person down is a good idea on the slick ones.

Next is a more wide open feeling section of canyon with a couple large drops that are easily bypassed.  The first large drop is bypassed LDC and the second bypassed RDC.

Rap 15 (dPurgNF_R15) is about 0.2 miles down canyon of rap 14.  Rap 15 is anchored from rocks wedged in a small alcove RDC about 20 feet back from the rap.  Rap 15 drops about 40 feet.

Down canyon of rap 15 are more down climb which are all pretty easy.  Soon will be a drop looking down to a large pothole.  Down climb LDC to get to the LDC side of the pothole.  Traverse along the down canyon side of the large pothole to get to another down climb RDC.  Rap 16 is just below this pothole.

Rap 16 (dPurgNF_R16) is about 250 feet down canyon of rap 15.  Rap 16 is anchored from rocks wedged along the wall RDC and drops about 60 feet down a slightly sloped wall.

Rap 17 (dPurgNF_R17) is about 300 feet down canyon of rap 16 and is optional.  Rap 17 is anchored from a small rock wedged in a pocket in the wall LDC.  The anchor is solid as long as the direction of pull does not vary a lot.  All but the last person should be meat anchored while the last person can use the anchor.  Rap 17 drops about 30 feet with a pothole below that can be avoided by traversing LDC while on rap. 

Rap 17 can be bypassed LDC by climbing up and over to an easy slope back to the canyon floor. Continue down canyon a couple hundred feet to where it starts to open up to the alluvial fan (yPurgatoryBt).

The Exit:
From where the canyon opens onto the alluvial fan (yPurgatoryBt) walk west about 0.8 miles toward Badwater Road where you left the exit vehicle parked.

GPS Waypoint Information

Back to the Canyoneering Trip Report List page.

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